Mt Baker-Squak Glacier

Claire, Yuko and I took advantage of a perfect spring weekend to climb a local volcano. We started on Saturday afternoon at a leisurely pace, camped on a perfect flat bench, then summited on Sunday under clear skies. My previous two climbs of Mt Baker required down-climbing the icy Roman Wall before encountering safe ski conditions. However this time, the snow softened perfectly and we were able to ski from the very summit (10,781 ft) all the way to the car (3,400 ft).

starting up:


camp:


We noticed a sizeable avalanche fracture, which was likely several days old. At the time of our climb the snow was extremely stable following a week of warm days and cool nights.


We did not rope up, due to the good snow coverage and the firm surface. This was one of the only crevasse bridges that we encountered:


Approaching the summit:


Enjoying the weather and views:


Skiing down:

Patagonia

After years of thinking about it, Yuko and I finally managed to take a trip to the Fitz Roy region of Patagonia in South America.

First Dave and I, in conjunction with Mark and Steve, climbed the Whillans Route on Poincenot in a 29-hour roundtrip push from Paso Superior. The route was plastered with snow and ice from a recent storm, which added some enjoyable mixed climbing to the ascent.

Poincenot as seen during the approach. Fitz Roy is hidden in the clouds to the right.


The initial ice ramp:


Steve aid climbing iced-up cracks higher on the route:


Dave, with Cerro Torre and the continental icecap beyond:


The summit:


We topped out around 9pm and rappelled all night. We experienced several inches of snowfall during the descent.

Next Yuko and I hiked our gear into the Torre valley (about 20 miles round-trip) in a windstorm:



A few days later, a brief weather window arrived!


We climbed Torre de la Media Luna with Mark via the route "Rubio y Azul". The temperature was around freezing and some of the cracks were iced up. This route took us around 18 hours from camp.

Yuko leading splitter cracks low on the route:


Me belaying, with awesome views in all directions:


Mark leads the amazing headwall cracks:


Yuko and Mark on the summit plateau:


The following week, we had yet another brief weather window. Yuko and I climbed the North Ridge of Aguja de la S in 16 hours round trip. We encountered cold temperatures, occasionally strong winds and snow flurries, all of which added to the ambiance of our ascent.

The upper pitches of the route:


Yuko leading on amazing granite flakes:


Yuko on the summit:


In addition to climbing some great routes, we met many cool people in Chalten, which was perhaps the best part of the trip. Celebrating our ascents in town:


We stopped by Buenos Aires on our way back. It's a cool city, reminiscent of Chicago but bigger and perhaps cleaner & safer:



This trip was amazing and we will hopefully return to Patagonia soon! Maybe we will even get a "real" weather window next time...

Banff ice climbing

Frank and I headed up north for a few days of ice-cragging. I am still relatively new at ice, so I was fortunate to develop my skills with such an experienced partner, who has logged plenty of mileage on ice up to WI6 in difficulty.

Monday

The drive up took longer than expected, due to heavy snowfall. 18 hours, and one low-speed collision with a deer later (fortunately the deer survived and walked away), and we were finally at Banff!

Tuesday

We got a late start on the first day, due to our 2:30am arrival. We headed to the Grotto Falls area, and climbed the super classic Grotto Falls (WI3):



Followed by "Hers" (WI4):



We tried to hike up to a multi-pitch route around the corner to see if it was in, but avalanche-prone slopes (rock slabs, overlayed by sugar snow, overlayed by a wind slab) convinced us to turn around. We had a few minutes of daylight remaining, so we decided to climb Grotto Falls again.

Wednsesday

We started slightly earlier on our second day, opting for the multi-pitch classic Professor Falls (4p WI4). Our start time was a little too "alpine", as we sat around for 45 minutes at the base of the route waiting for sunrise.

Here is a view of the route from later in the day:



Pitch 2:


Pitch 4:


There is a fifth pitch several hundred feet up some snow/ice slopes, but it is exposed to avalanche hazard, which happened to be somewhat high on this particular day. About 10 people had died in avalanches over the past 4 days in Canada...so we weren't about to push our luck...

Plus it was a bit wet, and a bit cold/windy, which was causing our gear and clothing to ice up a bit:




Thursday

The Weeping Wall is one of the most famous ice-climbing areas in the world. Thus it was a mandatory stop on our trip:



We climbed Sniveling Gully (4p WI3)

The climbing was moderate,



until the final pitch, which was rather thin.



Frank's extensive experience came in handy as he safely led this intimidating pitch.

We rappelled as per the guidebook's instructions. However one of the anchors was deeply buried by powder snow, and we could not locate it. So we traversed back to the climb and continued down on a v-thread anchor.

Friday

The forecast called for cold temperatures (-25 to -30 C) so we started a bit late, and stopped by the auto parts store to fix the turn signal bulb that was destroyed in the aforementioned deer collision.

We then headed to the classic, and easily accessible, Louise Falls (2p WI4).

A view of the climb from the approach:



I led the first pitch (WI3), and briefly considered stopping to belay at the low-angle ice shelf 30m up, which had a fixed anchor consisting of two bomber v-threads. However since I had a large amount of rope remaining, I elected to continue, traversing up and left toward the base of the crux pillar.

This proved to be a good decision. After traversing about 20 feet, I heard a huge roar, similar to a train approaching nearby at high speed. I looked upward and the entire right half of the climb was collapsing! It was surreal to see the school-bus sized ice curtain suspended in mid-air. I ducked my head, pulled against the wall and hung on tight to my tools as many tons of ice flew past. Incredibly, neither Frank nor I was injured. The rope extending between us was buried under basketball-sized ice chunks...





After waiting for my heart rate to level out after all the excitement, I continued up until I ran out of rope at the base of the pillar. The second pitch looked to be in fairly moderate shape, but Frank made the excellent point that the earlier ice collapse indicated unstable conditions, perhaps not the best time to be tapping our way up a completely free-standing ice pillar. So we placed a v-thread and rappelled the route, living to climb another day...

Saturday

On our last day, we stopped by Hafner Creek for a nice WI3+ pitch, after which we toproped a fun M6+ which featured a full-value steinpull move at a roof.

The M6+ is located to the right of the icicles. After my experience on Louise Falls, I knew to stay far away from all that hanging ice!



We made it back to Seattle before midnight, and fortunately without any additional collisions with roadside animals. This was a great trip, and I can't wait to head back to the Rockies for more!

2008: Year in review

Our wedding was definitely the biggest highlight of 2008, and as a result we did less climbing than usual. We still had a few good trips though. Here are the highlights:

Mount Rainier--Emmons Glacier (with partial ski descent).

It was awesome to finally get around to summiting the area's tallest and most obvious peak (I can see it from my house...) Well-frozen conditions did not allow us to ski off the summit, but I'll definitely be back for more in the future.

Dragontail--Serpentine Arete (IV 5.8).

This was a great day-trip with Yuko. The route itself was kind of chossy but there were definitely some nice pitches mixed in.

Temple Crag--Sun Ribbon Arete (IV 5.10a).

The combination of bomber rock quality, awesome exposure and a tyrolean traverse on this 18-pitch route obviously make it a classic. However the mellow surroundings of the High Sierra took away from the route for us--compared to the rugged terrain, large glaciers and remote feel of the Cascades or Bugaboos this felt more like a cragging route. On the other hand significant alpine ambiance was added when it started to hail just as we completed the final pitch.

Forbidden Peak--East Ridge (III 5.8).

Another great day trip, and probably the coolest route that I climbed with Yuko this year in terms of alpine ambiance. Due to fresh snowfall on the loose and exposed NE Ledges descent, we elected to downclimb the route which gave it a more full-value feel. There is a bit of loose rock on the route, which wasn't so bad on the way up but definitely annoying on the way down.

Squamish--The Daily Planet (3p 5.12-).

Yuko led all the pitches on this super-classic, nearly onsighting the 5.12 pitch before taking a short fall at the crux. She lowered to a stance and then fired the moves. This route really got me thinking about all the more difficult climbs that are still out there at our favorite areas, and which are surely within our grasp with just a bit of focus.

Early Morning Spire--Southwest Face (III 5.9).

This climb with Aaron was one of my overall favorites of the year. Many miles of glacier travel and the wild, remote feel of Marble Creek Cirque made the approach a worthwhile outing on its own. The climbing on the 1,200 foot face is mostly moderate but highly enjoyable. This trip is frequently recommended as a 3-day outing but we did it in 2, with the second day being a full value 18 hours on the move--awesome!

Leavenworth--Hyperspace/Iconoclast (8p 5.11).

Yuko and I have wanted to climb this classic for some time. The famous and intimidating "Pressure Chamber" overhanging flaring squeeze chimney pitch was swarming with bees, so we rappelled down to the 5.10c Iconoclast traverse, allowing us to finish up the familiar headwall crack of Outer Space. We'll definitely be back for the pressure chamber on a future trip.

Colfax Peak--Cosley-Houston (III WI4).

Jesse and I climbed this route in the fall with fat ice conditions and perfect weather. This climb was a blast and motivated me to develop my alpine ice skills to a higher level.

What's in store for the next year? Since we will kick off 2009 with an extended climbing trip to Patagonia, there will hopefully be some awesome alpine rock climbing in our not-too-distant future. Patagonia is not exactly known for reliable weather but we'll see what happens...

2007: Year in review

I thought I would take the opportunity, a full year after the fact, to reflect upon my favorite climbs of 2007. Determining the year's highlights is quite helpful in planning for future years!

Dragontail Peak: Triple Couloirs (IV)

This spectacular series of icy gullies had a couple of mixed rock steps along the way, which added fun intermittent challenges with a good sense of commitment.

Red Rocks: Woman of Mountain Dreams (V 5.10)

This awesome directissima climbs a line that I have looked at for years during our many previous trips to Red Rocks. It was amazing to actually climb it.

Red Rocks: Dogma (V 5.11)


This route has a fair number of bolts, but that doesn't mean that it is easy! Multiple consecutive 5.11 pitches guarantee a full-value experience. The Mt Wilson headwall is an incredible feature, another one which I have looked at and thought about for years.

Inspiration Peak: East Ridge (IV 5.9)

This airy, remote route was my first visit to the legendary Picket Range. A bit loose in places, but highly satisfying nonetheless for its remoteness and adventure.

Bugaboos: Beckey-Chouinard (V 5.10)

Yet another route that I have dreamed about for years...and it was even better than I expected! Undoubtedly the best climb I have ever done.

Bugaboos: Cooper-Kor (V 5.9 A0)

This climb had an aura of mystery to it--the line it ascends is spectacular, but it seem that it does not get climbed particularly often. There is also a 40-foot runout slab traverse that added to the intimidation factor (which wasn't too bad although you definitely would not want to fall). Highly enjoyable for the climbing itself (until the last few pitches which were very wet), as well as for the adventure factor.

Mt Slesse: NE Buttress (V 5.10)

I have been looking forward to this route for years (there were several such routes this year!) The climbing was somewhat mediocre but the setting, the length of the route, its committing nature and the fact that we had it to ourselves made for a high adventure quotient and therefore a highly memorable ascent.

Cody: The Main Vein (IV WI4)

This route consists of around 2,000 feet of water ice steps, many of which we soloed in order to reach the 300-foot WI4 flow near the top of the gully. An amazing route which Jason and I were lucky enough to climb under perfect conditions. I will definitely be back to Cody for more.

In terms of climbing it was a great year. Also Yuko and I got engaged this year, which is a lifetime highlight and made the year even better!

In addition, I actually kept track of almost all my weekend trips that year, which I have posted here for archival purposes:

January:
1/7/07: Heavy snow/rain, extreme avalanche danger, I-90 closed: stayed home.
1/13/07: Abiel Peak N Gully w/ Ralph & Ben (WI3)
1/14/07: Kendall Peak ski w/ Yuko
1/15/07: Heather Ridge ski w/ Yuko
1/20/07: Hubba Hubba ice climbing (3p WI3) w/ Justin Evans
1/21/07: Pineapple Basin ski w/ Yuko
1/27/07: Whitehorse mtn ski attempt w/ Rok, Nick (very icy conditions)

February:
2/3/07: MSTP ski trip to Stevens Pass
2/4/07: Warm & wet, so stayed home (biked to Vertical World w/ Yuko)
2/10/07: Mountaineer Creek Wall ice w/ Eric, Jason, Aaron (climbed ~8 pitches). Yuko avy course day 1.
2/11/07: Lichtenberg ski w/ Baldwin, Christophe, Nathan, Ian, Rok, Daryl. Yuko avy course day 2.
2/17/07: Vantage climbing w/ Yuko, Nellie.
2/18/07-2/19/07: Union Peak ski loop w/ Yuko (2-day)
2/24/07: Diamond Head ski w/ Yuko
2/25/07: Silver Peak ski attempt w/ Yuko & Rok (turned around due to avy hazard)

March

3/3/07-3/4/07: Sick…stayed home for the weekend.
3/10/07: Climbing comp at WWU w/ Jeremy, Matt.
3/11/07: Vantage w Yuko (Middle East Wall).
3/16/07-3/20/07: Smith Rock w/ Taylor, Jon, Justin and other UWCC’ers
3/24/07: Raining (went to Himalaya slideshow).
3/25/07: Leavenworth w/ Jeremy. Heart of Gold, Prime Rib, Midway.
3/30/07-3/31/07: Triple Couloirs w/ Jason, Aaron, Justin

April
4/6/07-4/7/07: Mt Baker Easton Glacier ski w/ Sam
4/8/07: Chair Peak N Shoulder ski w/ Claudius, Armin, Andy, Chris.
4/14/07-4/15/07: Stuart Glacier Couloir attempt w/ Sam, Jason, Justin Evans
4/18-4/29 Red Rocks w/ Yuko: Frigid Air Buttress, Woman of Mtn Dreams, Tunnel Vision, Dogma, Levitation 29, Sick For Toys.

May
5/5/07: Mt Dickerman climb & glacier rescue practice w/ Climbing Club
5/6/07: Silver Star ski w/ Christophe, Claudius, Armin, Claire, Andy, Jim.
5/12/07-5/13/07: Snowfield Peak ski attempt w/ Yuko & Sam
5/19/07-5/20/07: worked (grant data deadline), took it easy.
5/25/07: Fuhrer finger ski attempt w/ Baldwin
5/29/07: Index w Yuko—Heaven’s gate, DH p1-2.

June
6/2/07-6/3/07: Rainier Emmons ski attempt w/ Yuko
6/9/07: Leavenworth w/ Yuko. Climbed one 5.11 pitch, then heavy rain…
6/16/07-6/17/07: Forecast for rain, stayed home (seam-sealed tent)
6/23/07: Index w/ Christophe (Roger’s Corner, BOC, Princely, Dr Sniff, J Gardens x2, Godzilla).
6/30-7/1: Prusik S Face & W Ridge w/ Yuko

July
7/6-7/8 E Ridge Inspiration w/ Jason Killgore.
7/14-7/15 Clean Break attempt w/ Yuko (bad mosquitos, rain, off route‡bailed.)
7/23-8/2 Bugaboos w/ Yuko: Beckey-Chouinard, Surf’s Up, NW Ridge Eastpost, Sunshine Crack, Paddle Flake Direct, Cooper-Kor, Snowpatch Route.

August
8/5 Rainman (Darrington) w Yuko
8/11 Index w Yuko: Godzilla, Japanese Gardens p1 & p2, Pisces, BOC. Work BBQ in PM.
8/12 Index w Tom: Green Dragon
8/18-8/19 In LA for family party
8/25 Thin Red Line attempt w Tom (completed p1-p5 then bailed)

September
9/1-9/2 Pete & Mary’s wedding in CO
9/8-9/9 Slesse NEB w Jesse
9/15-9/16 Work party (Sat), MSTP party (Sun), rainy.
9/22-9/23 2+ hr run Sat.
9/29-9/30 rainy.

October
10/6 Camp Muir ski w Yuko + Armin + Claire
10/7 Vantage w Yuko + Armin + Claire
10/13 Outer Space & Orbit w Panos
10/14 Lake Serene hike/ NF recon w Panos
10/21 Tieton w Armin & Michiel & Yuko
10/26-10/27 N Ridge Eldorado w/ Jason
10/28 Index GM area w Yuko (bolted routes)

November
11/4 Went to Index w Yuko+Armin+Claire, rainy & wet. Hiked to Lake Serene.
11/10-11/11 Ran on Sat; climbing gym on Sun.

December
Ice climbing trip w/ Jason, Frank, Panos:
Day 1: (Hyalite): Lower Greensleeves, Hangover, Genesis II
Day 2: Champagne Sherbert, Champagne Slot
Day 3: Elevator Shaft, Unnamed, something else.
Day 4: Cody: High on Boulder/Save it for Later (3p)
Day 5: Main Vein (IV WI4)