Monday, November 10, 2008

2007: Year in review

I thought I would take the opportunity, a full year after the fact, to reflect upon my favorite climbs of 2007. Determining the year's highlights is quite helpful in planning for future years!

Dragontail Peak: Triple Couloirs (IV)

This spectacular series of icy gullies had a couple of mixed rock steps along the way, which added fun intermittent challenges with a good sense of commitment.

Red Rocks: Woman of Mountain Dreams (V 5.10)

This awesome directissima climbs a line that I have looked at for years during our many previous trips to Red Rocks. It was amazing to actually climb it.

Red Rocks: Dogma (V 5.11)


This route has a fair number of bolts, but that doesn't mean that it is easy! Multiple consecutive 5.11 pitches guarantee a full-value experience. The Mt Wilson headwall is an incredible feature, another one which I have looked at and thought about for years.

Inspiration Peak: East Ridge (IV 5.9)

This airy, remote route was my first visit to the legendary Picket Range. A bit loose in places, but highly satisfying nonetheless for its remoteness and adventure.

Bugaboos: Beckey-Chouinard (V 5.10)

Yet another route that I have dreamed about for years...and it was even better than I expected! Undoubtedly the best climb I have ever done.

Bugaboos: Cooper-Kor (V 5.9 A0)

This climb had an aura of mystery to it--the line it ascends is spectacular, but it seem that it does not get climbed particularly often. There is also a 40-foot runout slab traverse that added to the intimidation factor (which wasn't too bad although you definitely would not want to fall). Highly enjoyable for the climbing itself (until the last few pitches which were very wet), as well as for the adventure factor.

Mt Slesse: NE Buttress (V 5.10)

I have been looking forward to this route for years (there were several such routes this year!) The climbing was somewhat mediocre but the setting, the length of the route, its committing nature and the fact that we had it to ourselves made for a high adventure quotient and therefore a highly memorable ascent.

Cody: The Main Vein (IV WI4)

This route consists of around 2,000 feet of water ice steps, many of which we soloed in order to reach the 300-foot WI4 flow near the top of the gully. An amazing route which Jason and I were lucky enough to climb under perfect conditions. I will definitely be back to Cody for more.

In terms of climbing it was a great year. Also Yuko and I got engaged this year, which is a lifetime highlight and made the year even better!

In addition, I actually kept track of almost all my weekend trips that year, which I have posted here for archival purposes:

January:
1/7/07: Heavy snow/rain, extreme avalanche danger, I-90 closed: stayed home.
1/13/07: Abiel Peak N Gully w/ Ralph & Ben (WI3)
1/14/07: Kendall Peak ski w/ Yuko
1/15/07: Heather Ridge ski w/ Yuko
1/20/07: Hubba Hubba ice climbing (3p WI3) w/ Justin Evans
1/21/07: Pineapple Basin ski w/ Yuko
1/27/07: Whitehorse mtn ski attempt w/ Rok, Nick (very icy conditions)

February:
2/3/07: MSTP ski trip to Stevens Pass
2/4/07: Warm & wet, so stayed home (biked to Vertical World w/ Yuko)
2/10/07: Mountaineer Creek Wall ice w/ Eric, Jason, Aaron (climbed ~8 pitches). Yuko avy course day 1.
2/11/07: Lichtenberg ski w/ Baldwin, Christophe, Nathan, Ian, Rok, Daryl. Yuko avy course day 2.
2/17/07: Vantage climbing w/ Yuko, Nellie.
2/18/07-2/19/07: Union Peak ski loop w/ Yuko (2-day)
2/24/07: Diamond Head ski w/ Yuko
2/25/07: Silver Peak ski attempt w/ Yuko & Rok (turned around due to avy hazard)

March

3/3/07-3/4/07: Sick…stayed home for the weekend.
3/10/07: Climbing comp at WWU w/ Jeremy, Matt.
3/11/07: Vantage w Yuko (Middle East Wall).
3/16/07-3/20/07: Smith Rock w/ Taylor, Jon, Justin and other UWCC’ers
3/24/07: Raining (went to Himalaya slideshow).
3/25/07: Leavenworth w/ Jeremy. Heart of Gold, Prime Rib, Midway.
3/30/07-3/31/07: Triple Couloirs w/ Jason, Aaron, Justin

April
4/6/07-4/7/07: Mt Baker Easton Glacier ski w/ Sam
4/8/07: Chair Peak N Shoulder ski w/ Claudius, Armin, Andy, Chris.
4/14/07-4/15/07: Stuart Glacier Couloir attempt w/ Sam, Jason, Justin Evans
4/18-4/29 Red Rocks w/ Yuko: Frigid Air Buttress, Woman of Mtn Dreams, Tunnel Vision, Dogma, Levitation 29, Sick For Toys.

May
5/5/07: Mt Dickerman climb & glacier rescue practice w/ Climbing Club
5/6/07: Silver Star ski w/ Christophe, Claudius, Armin, Claire, Andy, Jim.
5/12/07-5/13/07: Snowfield Peak ski attempt w/ Yuko & Sam
5/19/07-5/20/07: worked (grant data deadline), took it easy.
5/25/07: Fuhrer finger ski attempt w/ Baldwin
5/29/07: Index w Yuko—Heaven’s gate, DH p1-2.

June
6/2/07-6/3/07: Rainier Emmons ski attempt w/ Yuko
6/9/07: Leavenworth w/ Yuko. Climbed one 5.11 pitch, then heavy rain…
6/16/07-6/17/07: Forecast for rain, stayed home (seam-sealed tent)
6/23/07: Index w/ Christophe (Roger’s Corner, BOC, Princely, Dr Sniff, J Gardens x2, Godzilla).
6/30-7/1: Prusik S Face & W Ridge w/ Yuko

July
7/6-7/8 E Ridge Inspiration w/ Jason Killgore.
7/14-7/15 Clean Break attempt w/ Yuko (bad mosquitos, rain, off route‡bailed.)
7/23-8/2 Bugaboos w/ Yuko: Beckey-Chouinard, Surf’s Up, NW Ridge Eastpost, Sunshine Crack, Paddle Flake Direct, Cooper-Kor, Snowpatch Route.

August
8/5 Rainman (Darrington) w Yuko
8/11 Index w Yuko: Godzilla, Japanese Gardens p1 & p2, Pisces, BOC. Work BBQ in PM.
8/12 Index w Tom: Green Dragon
8/18-8/19 In LA for family party
8/25 Thin Red Line attempt w Tom (completed p1-p5 then bailed)

September
9/1-9/2 Pete & Mary’s wedding in CO
9/8-9/9 Slesse NEB w Jesse
9/15-9/16 Work party (Sat), MSTP party (Sun), rainy.
9/22-9/23 2+ hr run Sat.
9/29-9/30 rainy.

October
10/6 Camp Muir ski w Yuko + Armin + Claire
10/7 Vantage w Yuko + Armin + Claire
10/13 Outer Space & Orbit w Panos
10/14 Lake Serene hike/ NF recon w Panos
10/21 Tieton w Armin & Michiel & Yuko
10/26-10/27 N Ridge Eldorado w/ Jason
10/28 Index GM area w Yuko (bolted routes)

November
11/4 Went to Index w Yuko+Armin+Claire, rainy & wet. Hiked to Lake Serene.
11/10-11/11 Ran on Sat; climbing gym on Sun.

December
Ice climbing trip w/ Jason, Frank, Panos:
Day 1: (Hyalite): Lower Greensleeves, Hangover, Genesis II
Day 2: Champagne Sherbert, Champagne Slot
Day 3: Elevator Shaft, Unnamed, something else.
Day 4: Cody: High on Boulder/Save it for Later (3p)
Day 5: Main Vein (IV WI4)

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